Why Grow Zinnias?
Zinnias are one of the most colorful and easy-to-grow flowers you can plant from seed. With their cheerful blooms in shades of red, pink, orange, yellow and purple, zinnias are a staple for pollinator gardens and cutting gardens. They add an amazing pop of color to beds, borders and containers from summer to frost.
From my experience as an avid gardener, zinnias are tough, drought-tolerant plants that thrive with minimal care. Once established, they can withstand periods of heat and dry weather without wilting. This makes them a great option if you want bright, long-lasting blooms but don’t have time for high-maintenance plants. Zinnias are kind of the ultimate low-maintenance flower!
Starting Zinnias from Seed
To get your zinnia growing journey started, you’ll need to begin with seed. Thankfully, zinnia seeds are really easy to sprout and germinate. Here are the basics:
- Sow zinnia seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before the last spring frost date for your area. This gives the seedlings time to develop into sturdy transplants before being moved outside.
- Use a seed-starting mix and plant the seeds 1/4 inch deep in small pots or seed trays. A seed-starting mix drains well to prevent damping off disease.
- Keep the soil lightly moist until seeds sprout, which usually takes 7-10 days. A plastic dome over the seeds helps retain moisture. Remove the dome once seeds emerge.
As the seedlings grow, give them bright light and temperatures around 70°F. Hardening them off before transplanting is important – sort of like exposing them to sun a little more each day. This helps the seedlings adjust to outdoor conditions.
When and How to Transplant Zinnias
Most garden centers will have started zinnia transplants for sale too if you want to skip directly to this stage. The key is to transplant after the last spring frost date, when nighttime temps won’t dip below freezing.
Here’s the sitch: Dig holes twice the width of the seedling root balls and slightly deeper. Gently pull seedlings from their pots or flats making sure not to damage the roots. Set plants in the holes at the same level they were growing previously. Fill in soil and firm it lightly around the stems. Water thoroughly after planting.
Keep the transplants well watered until established, which should take about 2 weeks depending on weather. Then you’ll be rewarded with beautiful blooms all summer!
Caring for Zinnias
Once planted, zinnias have pretty basic care needs. They basically perform best in full sun locations with well-draining soil. Fertilize monthly with a balanced plant food to boost growth. Stake taller varieties if your space gets windy to prevent snapping stems.
Pruning is key to promoting lots of blooms. Simply deadhead spent flowers by removing the entire flower head down to the next set of leaves or new growth. This encourages reblooming all season rather than the plant putting energy into seed production.
Pests are rarely an issue, but watch for occasional aphids which can stunt plants. A strong spray of water usually does the trick, but neem oil or insecticidal soap can also be used as needed.
From my experience, the amazing thing about zinnias is they reward you for minimal effort. Watering during dry spells and deadheading is low-maintenance for such gorgeous color all summer long! Zinnias are sorta a no-brainer for adding cheer to any garden.
Top Zinnia Varieties to Try
With all the zinnia choices out there, it can be overwhelming to pick your favorites. Here are some top varieties to choose from based on flower type and colors:
Cut-flower Types:
– Benary’s Giant: Huge 3-4 inch blooms on 2-3 foot plants. Comes in cherry, orange, red, salmon, white, and yellow.
– Oklahoma: An old-time favorite with 3-4 inch fully double blooms. Colors include orchid, pink, purple, red, rose, salmon, scarlet, white, and yellow.
Dry-climate Types:
– Zahara: Heat and drought tolerant with 1-2 inch single blooms on mounded 12-18 inch plants. Blooms in shades of orange, red, rose, salmon, white and yellow.
– Mexicali Single Mix: Single blooms on mounded 12-18 inch plants in gold, orange, red, rose, and white.
Dwarf or Bedding Types:
– SnapDragon: Unique curled and pointed blooms that resemble snapdragons. Compact 10-12 inch plants.
– Profusion: Prolific bloomer bearing 1-2 inch semi-double flowers. Dwarf 8-10 inch plants come in many colors.
Personally, I always plant a combo of types to extend the bloom time. The cut flowers make nice bouquets while beachball-sized giants add big impact. With varieties for every climate and space, there’s a perfect zinnia out there for you!
Overwintering Zinnias for an Earlier Start
As much as we look forward to spring planting each year, it can be kind of a bummer to have to restart zinnias from seed when flowers take so long to mature. Luckily, there’s a way to get a head start and have zinnias blooming that much sooner.
The trick is to dig mature zinnia plants in fall after a few hard frosts and trim them back to 6 inches. Bundle the stems together and store in a cool, dark place like a basem*nt over winter. Check them periodically – if stems start to shrivel, give them a drink of water.
Come early spring, unpack the dormant zinnias and replant outdoors after the last frost date, just like usual. Within a few weeks, they’ll start sprouting again from their root systems. Pretty soon you’ll have colorful blooms way ahead of starting from seed! It’s totally worth the small effort for an earlier flower fix.
Plus, you get to keep your favorite varieties going year after year without having to replace from seed each spring. It’s kind of a nifty gardening hack if you ask me! Zinnias basically go dormant over winter and spring back to life, saving you time and keeping those favorite cultivars going. Neat, huh?
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: My zinnia seeds aren’t sprouting. What’s wrong?
A: A few common issues could be causing lack of germination. Seeds may be planted too deeply, the soil may be too wet or dry, or the seeds could be old. Try soaking seeds in water for a few hours before planting 1/4 inch deep. Use a seed-starting mix and keep soil lightly moist. Test germination by planting a few extra seeds to see if any sprout. If none do, it’s likely a bad seed batch.
Q: My zinnia leaves are yellowing and wilting. Help!
This could be due to a few different issues. Check soil moisture – wilting is a sign of under-watering during hot weather. Excessive rain can also cause issues. Check for pests like aphids, spider mites or fungal diseases like powdery mildew. Fertilize weekly if growth seems stunted. Cut back wilted parts and water deeply if soil is dry. Improve air circulation and apply neem oil or insecticidal soap if pests are the problem.
Q: Will zinnias self-seed or reseed in my garden?
Potentially! Zinnias can readily reseed themselves if blooms are deadheaded and allowed to drop seeds. The seeds will overwinter in the soil and sprout the following spring. This results in volunteers popping up randomly. It’s great for a free repeat performance but might be less desirable if you want more control over placement. Deadhead carefully before seeds mature if self-seeding isn’t your goal.
Does this help answer your zinnia growing questions? Feel free to ask if any other issues come up! With a little TLC, these cheery flowers will reward you with an amazing show all summer. Happy gardening!
Instructions for Growing Zinnias from Seed
| Step | Task | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Select seeds | Choose zinnia varieties suitable for your growing zone and preferences (e.g. flower size, color) |
| 2 | Start seeds indoors | 6-8 weeks before last spring frost date in 4-6 inch pots or seed trays |
| 3 | Prepare soil | Loosen soil, rake smooth, add compost or fertilizer as needed |
| 4 | Harden off seedlings | Gradually expose to outdoor conditions over 7-10 days before transplanting |
| 5 | Transplant seedlings | Plant 18-24 inches apart after danger of frost has passed |
| 6 | Water regularly | 1-2 inches per week, more in hot/dry spells; mulch to retain moisture |
| 7 | Deadhead flowers | Remove spent blooms to encourage further flowering through fall |
FAQ
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When should I plant zinnia seeds?
You can plant zinnia seeds directly in the garden anytime after the last spring frost date for your area. Most people chose to sow them in early spring so the seedlings have plenty of time to grow before it starts getting too hot. However, if you have a long growing season, you can still plant zinnias as late as early summer and expect them to flower.
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How deeply should I plant zinnia seeds?
Zinnia seeds are small, so you don’t want to bury them too deep. Basically, plant them about 1/4 inch (0.5 centimeters) below the soil surface. Kind of press them gently into the soil instead of just dropping them on top. At the same time, they still need some soil coverage so they don’t dry out.
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Should I start zinnia seeds indoors or directly in the garden?
Either way can work – it just depends on your schedule and weather. Starting seeds indoors gives you a head start if you’re planting early. However, zinnias germinate quickly, so direct sowing in the garden is also effective and less work. I’d say just experiment and see what works best for your conditions!
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How far apart should I space zinnia seeds or seedlings?
For bush-type zinnias, sow seeds or place seedlings 8 to 12 inches apart. Taller varieties that will grow 2 feet or more need a little extra room – space them 12 to 18 inches apart. This gives them enough elbow room to grow without crowding each other. Packing them too tightly could result in disease issues or less flowering.
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How can I get more flowers from my zinnias?
A few tips for big, colorful blooms on your zinnias include full sun exposure, good drainage, and regular deadheading. Strong, healthy plants will be more apt to produce lots more flowers all season long. You can also fertilize periodically using a general-purpose plant food. Who doesn’t love a stunning display of amazing zinnia blossoms all summer?
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Why aren’t my zinnias flowering?
If you planted zinnias but aren’t seeing many flowers, it could be due to a few issues. Your plants may need more sunlight – zinnias like at least 6 hours per day. They may also be under stressed from not enough water or fertilizer. Overcrowding or diseases could be to blame too. But double check that you planted the right species – some zinnias are bred only for foliage. With a little tinkering, you should get those pretty blooms soon!
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My zinnias fell over – what happened?
It’s pretty common for zinnia stalks to weaken and flop as the season wears on. Stems may collapse from heavy rain or high winds. Sometimes diseases like powdery mildew can also be a culprit. The good news is, not all hope is lost! Try staking or caging very tall varieties. Cut back fallen stalks to where strong new growth appears. With any luck, your zinnias will withstand future storms and bounce back even more awesome than before.
